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THE 

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI 

BULLETIN 



Volume 15 Number 7 



EXTENSION SERIES 6 



The Preservation of Food in the Home 



BY 

LOUISE STANLEY, Ph. D. 
Assistant Professor of Home Economics, 

AND 

MAY c. McDonald, a. m. 

Instructor in Home Economics 




UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI 

COLUMBIA, MISSOURI 

March 6, 1914 



THE 

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI 

BULLETIN 



Volume 15 Number 7 



EXTENSION SERIES 6 



The Preservation of Food in the Home 



LOUISE STANLEY, Ph.D. 
Assistant Professor of Home Economics, 



MAY c. McDonald, A. M. 

Instructor in Home Economics 




UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI 

COLUMBIA, MISSOURI 
March 6, 1914 










3 



1 



JUL 15 ^9U 



Preservation of Food in the Home 

INTRODUCTION 

In the household we still work according to rule without knowing 
the reasons why. Our cooking rules are called recipes. In these we have 
stated in many cases numerous unnecessary steps and we frequently find 
very inaccurate statements. The aim of this bulletin is to explain the 
reasons for the various steps as they are given in some typical recipes for 
the preservation of food. It is hoped that the explanations given will be 
sufficient to enable every woman to make better use of the numerous 
recipes she has already at hand. 

Why Foods Spoil. We know that foods spoil for two reasons. 

1. The most important reason is that there are present all about 
us tiny plants too small for us to see, which we call micro-organisms. 
These micro-organisms like the same food we like — meat, bread, vegetables. 
Most of our plants are green in color and can manufacture from the air 
and water and soil the food which they need. These plants, micro-organ- 
isms, which are so small and so numerous, cannot do this. You might 
call them lazy little beasts only they are plants and not animals. They 
prefer to live on our food, and in the process of helping themselves, they 
in most cases render the food unfit for our use. In order to keep our 
food sweet and clean, then, we must kill any of these plants that may 
have got into it before it comes to us; and we must prevent any others 
from getting in; or else we must keep it under such conditions that any 
which may be present cannot thrive and bring about their destructive 
work. 

2. The second reason for the spoiling of foods is not so easy to ex- 
plain. We know that there is a great difference in the ripening of all 
fruits and vegetables. For example, an apple, a peach, and a quince all 
ripen differently. During the time that they are growing the same sun 
is shining upon them and they enjoy the same rainfall. There must be 
some individual differences which cause the variations in ripening. 

The material in the fruit or vegetable which causes the ripening so 
characteristic of the different kinds is called by the scientist an enzyme. 
These enzymes aided by the heat of the sun bring about certain typical 
changes in the fruit or vegetable which we call ripening. It is well known 
that if these changes continue too long the fruit deteriorates in quality 
and finally becomes unfit for use. We also know that such changes con- 
tinue after the fruit has been gathered. 

These ripening changes, especially those which occur after the gath- 
ering of the fruit, take place with varying rapidity in the different kinds 
of fruits and vegetables. The possibility of storing any vegetable material 
depends upon the rapidity of this change. Apples may be stored because 

(3) 



4 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

this change is slow. Peaches ripen rapidly and on this account cannot be 
stored for any length of time. 

Why Fruit and Vegetables Become Stale. In the household we are 
not concerned with enzymes in the ordinary methods of preserving foods 
because the heating necessary to kill the micro-organisms destroys the 
enzymes also. We are concerned with them, however, when we gather 
fruit or vegetables for immediate use for we know that the flavor of stale 
vegetables is due to changes brought about by these enzymes. 

Fresh cdrn on standing becomes less sweet. This is due to the fact 
that the sugar present when the corn is first gathered is being continually 
changed by the enzymes to a less sweet material, starch, until this action 
is stopped by cooking which kills the enzymes. This same change takes 
place before the corn is gathered, only in this case there is continually a 
fresh supply of sugar unless the corn is too old, when we know it also 
lacks its sweet flavor. Similar changes take place in other vegetables, 
but in most cases it is less noticeable because the diff'erences in flavor are 
less pronounced. 

The delicate flavors of fruits such as strawberries are destroyed by 
allowing them to stand after they have been gathered. This fact is well 
demonstrated by the difference in flavor of the berries eaten just oflf the 
vine and those which have stood for two or three days in the city market. 
Therefore, if we wish to preserve the delicacy of flavor in either fruits 
or vegetables we must can them as soon after gathering as possible, in 
any case, the same day, 

In order to set to work on the problem of food preservation with an 
idea of finding out the reasons for the various steps involved, we must 
first know something more about the two causes of decay, the micro- 
organisms and the enzymes, the conditions under which they live, how 
they may be destroyed or their action stopped. All this is taken up in 
detail by the scientist in the study called bacteriology. We can only 
touch upon it most briefly here. 

The Presence of Air Does not Cause Food to Spoil. The old idea 
which is still believed in many places that air causes the decay of food 
material and that the exclusion of this air in some way helps to keep the 
food is incorrect. The bacteriologist has found out that if he heats the 
air before introducing it into food materials it no longer causes them to 
spoil. From this we know that the air itself does not in any way cause 
the spoiling. We must keep out the air, however, because there is present 
in this air large numbers of micro-organisms. For this reason when we 
are filling cans or jars with fruit cooked outside the can, we fill the can 
full so as to exclude all air, because we know this air contains some harm- 
ful micro-organisms. On the other hand, when the fruit or vegetable 
is to be cooked in the can we need not worry about the air space because 
this air will be heated at the same time the fruit is and the micro-organ- 
isms in it will be killed in the same way as those which are contained in 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IX THE HOME 5 

the food material itself. Practically, however, whether we cook our fruit 
outside the can or in the can we know that it is poor economy to leave an 
air space where we might have fruit. 

How Micro-Organisms Get Into Our Food. Since we know that our 
fruits spoil on account of micro-organisms, bacteria, yeast, and mould, 
and that these small plants are not only present in the air but also in 
dust, soil and water, and since air comes in contact with all the utensils 
and materials we are using, we realize how very careful we must be to 
keep these little pests out of our foods. 

Conditions Under "Which Micro-Organisms Grow. In order to pre- 
serve our foods to the best advantage we must know how these bacteria, 
yeasts, and moulds live. We must know the conditions under which they 
grow and develop best, we must know the means by which they may be 
killed or their action stopped. Further than this the housewife must 
know how to do this with the facilities to be found in the ordinary kitchen. 

1. Micro-organisms must have foods similar to our own. They 
are quite fond of meat, as we know by the readiness with which they de- 
stroy it. Some of them like sugar but they cannot live on sugar alone 
any more than we can. The different kinds are quite like people, having 
individual preferences. In general, however, it will be found that in order 
for them to thrive well they must have a balanced ration. 

2. They must have something to drink — water. We know that 
while fresh fruits deteriorate quite rapidly, if we dry these fruits or put 
them in the sun until the amount of water present is considerably dimin- 
ished, then the bacteria cannot destroy them. The scientist tells us 
definitely that the amount of water necessary is 30 per cent. 

3. They must have favorable temperature conditions. They live 
best at a temperature about the same as that of our own bodies. If this 
temperature is considerably lowered, while they continue to live, they 
will not develop. We know that ice may contain bacteria and on this 
account, unless we are very sure of the source of our ice, we must be very 
careful not to put it directly into water which we intend to drink. If on the 
other hand, the temperature is increased beyond a certain point, these 
organisms are destroyed. 

Temperature at Which Micro-Organisms are Killed. The tempera- 
ture at which micro-organisms are killed varies with the different kinds. 
All that are actually growing are killed by boiling. It is well to have in 
mind just what temperature this represents. If a thermometer is inserted 
in boiling water, it will register 212° Fahrenheit, or 100° Centigrade. 

There are a few, however, that are able to go over into a more resist- 
ant form which the bacteriologist calls a spore. Spores are not killed by 
boiling water unless the boiling is continued for some time. They can be 
killed by heating to a temperature higher than boiling, or if left after 
boiling under favorable conditions for 24 hours, they will develop into 
on active form and then may be killed by simple boiling. This is the scien- 

2 



6 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

tific reason for a well-known, popular method of canning such vegetables 
as corn, beans, and peas in which the material is heated for three succes- 
sive days. 

Methods of Food Preservation. There is no phase of the conserva- 
tion of food in the country home that is of greater importance than that 
which has to do with its preservation. The methods of food preservation 
now in use may be conveniently classified under five heads: 

1. Harmful chemical preservatives 

2. Low temperature 

3. Drying 

4. Heat 

5. Harmless chemical preservatives 

Harmful Chemical Preservatives — So-Called Preserving Powders. 

Chemical preservatives act in various ways to prevent the growth of 
bacteria. While some are known to be harmless, and others are known 
to be harmful, there is a large group about which we are undecided — 
sodium benzoate, sodium sulphite and boracic acid. These have been 
the subjects of a great deal of discussion the last few years. Most scien- 
tists have now concluded that the majority of them are harmful, at least 
in the hands of the inexperienced. While we cannot prove this specifi- 
cally in many cases, we have decided that so long as there is a doubt they 
should not be used in our foods. 

A further objection to their use is that they make it possible to pre- 
serve food which is about to spoil and may be in an unwholesome and 
unsanitary condition. 

As a rule, such preservatives have played but a small part in the 
home preservation of fruits, and the pure food officials are gradually con- 
trolling by different means their use in the factories. While some do 
admit that theif use commercially is permissible, they are much more 
harmful in the hands of the house-wife who does not know just what a 
particular material is or the dangers which are present in its use. 

The factory canner knows what he is using; knows just how much he 
can use; and can determine that amount accurately. The housewife 
does not know which of a given list of chemicals is sold to her under the 
name of preserving powder; she does not know how much she should use, 
nor is she able to measure it very accurately. Such chemicals are on the 
market under the name of preserving powders and the unsuspecting house- 
wives buy them, little realizing that they are purchasing in a concentrated 
form the material which is partially responsible for the feeling which we 
have toward the factory canned goods. In any case, it is only a sub- 
stitute for careful, intelligent work, and will not accomplish anything 
which cannot be gained by the latter. 

Preservation by Means of Low Temperature. Low temperature 
is of great commercial importance. The making of artificial ice and arti- 
ficial refrigeration have done more than any other one thing to make possi- 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 7 

ble a better distribution of food products. It is used in the home, but is of 
sufficient importance for another bulletin. 

Preservation by Means of Drying. Since the development of other 
methods, drying is not as much used as formerly. It is based upon the fact 
stated above that when the amount of water in any material is reduced be- 
low one-third the bacteria no longer find conditions favorable for devel- 
opment. It has been almost entirely replaced by methods to be consid- 
ered next. This is not in all cases an advantage because in the dried ma- 
terials the flavor is frequently preserved to a greater extent, and the bulk 
is appreciably reduced without any loss of food value. It also is a ques- 
tion worthy of separate consideration so will not be taken up here. 

Preservation by Means of Heat. This method of preservation of 
foods is by far the most important and in combination with the use of 
harmless chemical preservatives, such as sugar, spice and vinegar, goes 
to make up the chief method of food preservation in the home. 

We shall now discuss as simply as possible the few principles which 
are the basis of food preservation by heat, and show how they may be 
applied in some typical recipes. The recipes and directions at present 
available are without number and what is now needed is to get at the im- 
portant points in each and leave out the unnecessary steps. We can only 
do this by having a definite idea of what our object is and the best ways, 
of accomplishing it. 

In this day and time when there is so much to be done in the farm- 
home, the farm woman will eventually refuse to worry with the details 
of canning and preserving unless we can show her how they can be done 
with less expenditure of time and energy. That this is not always done 
can be illustrated by a quotation from the preface of a popular recipe 
book on canning and preserving: " While the recipes contained herein are 
as simply and explicitly described as possible, to insure perfect success 
time must not be considered and the greatest care taken. " 

The woman of today must consider her time, especially when recipes 
call for such a useless expenditure of it. Good examples of this can be 
taken from the same book quoted above. We are not surprised to hear 
this author advocate the making of blackberry preserves according to the 
following rule: 

"Spread them out separately on flat dishes, sprinkle with the sugar, 
and stand aside for one hour; then put them in porcelain lined vessel with 
all the juice that may have exuded; stand kettle over the fire until the 
berries are slightly heated, then take them out one by one with a spoon 
and spread them on the same flat dish." . . . And for cherry pre- 
serves, ". . . lift carefully each cherry with a teaspoon and put into 
tumblers or jars and stand aside to cool. " 

The above methods may be used by the women who has more time 
at her disposal than she knows what to do with. The country woman 
probably makes better preserves with less expenditure of time and energy. 



8 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

Still she is in many cases questioning whether the time necessary cannot 
be further decreased and is asking for help, especially along that most 
difficult line of all, vegetable canning. 

Realizing the importance of this work in the farm home and realizing 
that much material was being wasted on the farm, because the methods 
had not been carefully worked out, the United States Department of 
Agriculture sent an expert to study factory methods of canning and to 
adapt such methods to use under home conditions. 

A summary of this investigation may be found in Farmers' Bulletin 
521, issued by the United States Department of Agriculture. The success 
of the canning work done by the girls' canning clubs of the country for the 
last three years has demonstrated beyond the shadow of a doubt that the 
methods or processes outlined by the canning clubs directors are applicable 
to any home conditions and can be carried out by even young children. 

Names of Food Preserved by Heat and Sugar. One other point 
where we have failed in working out our methods systematically is in 
having definite standards toward which to work. There is too little un- 
derstanding of the meaning of various names applied to food products, 
especially to those in which sugar is used. Indefiniteness in the use of 
terms is illustrated by comparing recipes for materials called by the same 
names in the different recipe books. 

An effort has been made to systematize the chief points in such recipes 
in the same way that the men have systematized their stock judging and 
corn judging work, that is, by making score cards for each of the distinct 
products. On these score cards the essential characteristics of the differ- 
ent products are listed and a definite value is assigned to each. 

It is hoped that such systematization will help both in bringing about 
more uniform products and in forwarding the educational work which 
has the preservation of food as its basis. When exhibits of such materials 
are judged the score may be marked on each can so the contestant will 
know wherein she has failed. 

CANNING 

Canning will be considered first because we are concerned simply 
with the use of heat in killing micro-organisms and the subsequent pre- 
vention of the entrance of others. What we desire in the canned product 
is to have the flavor of the fruit or vegetable as nearly as possible like that 
of the fresh fruit. We cannot have the same flavor, since heating always 
changes the flavor to a certain extent, and the heating is necessary to kill 
the organisms and any enzymes present. Underripe fruit or vegetables, or 
those that have been kept too long after gathering, cannot be expected to 
taste well after canning. The best rule is not to can any material which 
you would not be able to serve on your own table immediately. All 
green vegetables, such as peas, corn, etc., should be taken early before 
they lose the sweet taste, that is, before the sugar is changed to starch. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 9 

We should also remember that if vegetables are kept too long after being 
gathered, the change from sugar to starch may be brought about by means 
of the enzymes present. 

MATERIALS NEEDED 

A. Fruit or vegetable to be canned. 

B. Sugar will be needed in canning fruit. The sugar should be pure 
and white. We have no difficulty now in obtaining pure, unadulterated 
sugar. Because of the former practice of adulterating loose sugar, many 
older English recipes call for loaf sugar, which was at one time the more 
pure form. One of the writers was much surprised, on going into a kitchen 
at Christ College, Oxford, England, to find the cook there, a "mere man," 
with a hammer pounding up loaf sugar for use in making marmalade, 
because the recipe called for it, in that form. An illustration of such 
recipes is the following quotation from a marmalade recipe in an English 
book on preserving. "... only the best materials should be used, 
for example, Seville oranges and lump sugar." 

C. Salt will be needed for the vegetables. Any pure coarse salt is 
perfectly satisfactory. Prepared table salt usually contains some other 
material which may prove objectionable. 

UTENSILS NEEDED 

A. Cans or Jars. Tin cans are cheaper but since most of them can be 
used only one year, glass jars are more satisfactory and often less expen- 
sive in the end, though they cost more at first. In case the canned mate- 
rial is to be sold, tin cans will be more satisfactory because they can be 
more readily packed and shipped. 

1. Characteristics of a Good Glass Jar. A good jar must be capable 
of keeping out air. No metal should come in contact with the contents. 
The top or the part of the top which comes in contact with the material 
in the jar should be all in one piece, so as to offer no place for the accumula- 
tion of dirt, etc. The sides of the jar should be as nearly straight as pos- 
sible so that the vegetables can be put in whole or in large pieces. Such 
a jar is easier to clean. 

2. Different Types of Jars. No effort will be made here to defend 
the advantages and disadvantages of the different types of jars. Proba- 
bly the best is the one with a glass top, held down by a metal spring ar- 
rangement. 

3. Selection of Jars. Jars should be carefully selected, making 
sure that the edges are smooth. They should be tested before being 
used to be sure they are air-tight. To test them, fill the jar with water, 
adjust top and rubber, invert, and if no water escapes the jar may be 
considered air-tight. 

4. Rubbers and Tops. Much material is wasted by false economy 
in using imperfect covers and rubbers for the second time. The covers 



10 



L'MVERSITV OF INITSSOURT HULLETIN 




TWO TYPES OF JARS 
A, metal top; B, glass cover with metal clasp, open. 



of screw top jars may be kept in good condition for several years, provid- 
ed proper care is taken in opening the can. The usual custom of loosening 
the cover with a knife is a bad one in that it frequently destroys the value 
of the edge as a seal. The better way is to remove the rubber by pulling 
it out from the edge. This destroys the rubber so there is no further 
temptation to use it again and at the same time the cover is loosened with- 
out being bent. 

B. Canners. There are on the market at the present time many differ- 
ent canners most of which are good. For the average home the purchase 
of a canner probably will pay by the fruit and time that it will save. 
However, the housewife should consider carefully the merits of the differ- 
ent types of canners in order to decide which best suits her individual 
needs. 

Home-Made Canner. A home-made ca nner which will do very sat- 
isfactory work, can be improvised from utensils to be found in any 
kitchen. While we appreciate the value of a commercial canner, each 
homemaker should decide for herself whether the amount of canning she 
does will justify the investment. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 



II 




Same as on Page 10, Sealed. 




DIFFERENT TYPES OF JARS 

A, metal top, vacuum seal; B, glass top, vacuum seal; 

C, ordinary screw top. 



12 



UXIVERSTTY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 




OPENING A CAN BY REMOVING THE RUBBER 

A practical housewife gives the following instructions: 

" At a cost of two dollars we have a home-made steaming vessel. It 
is made of heavy galvanized iron. It is ten inches wide by fourteen and a 
half inches long and twelve inches deep. It has a perforated false bottom, 
with short legs to raise it off the bottom of the vessel. On this false bot- 
tom the jars are placed to prevent burning or scorching. The cover is 
close fitting and braced across with strips of the same metal to prevent 
warping. 

It holds six quart or half-gallon jars and is invaluable and indispensa- 
ble. In this way we make a kind of wholesale job of canning, and often, 
for the sake of economy, place the steamer on the kitchen stove while the 
cook is perparing dinner. Oftentimes we use the coal oil stove to avoid 
the heat of the cook stove, preparing the vegetables in a cool place, or 
out on the porch, not touching them until steamed." 

1. Water Bath Canners. There are three general types of canners 
on the market. The simplest is known as the water bath. It consists of 
a containing vessel with a rack and a cover. As the rack has handles to it, 
it serves not only to keep the jars off the bottom but at the same time 
as a means of lifting the jars into and from the hot water. There are uten- 
sils in every home from which such a canner can be made. 

For example, we may use as the container a wash boiler, any type of 
pail with cover or anything else to which a tight fitting cover can be made. 
A rack may be made of boards, heavy screen, or tin. 



PRESERVATION OF FOCD IX THE HOME 



13 




A WATER BATH CANNER IS POSSIBLE IN ANY HOME 
Wire handles to the rack make the lifting easier. 




PORTABLE WATER BATH CANNER 
A, rack for holding cans; B, fire box with water container above. 

3 



14 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 



2. Water-Seal Canners. The second type is known as a water-seal 
canner. It is a more complicated apparatus and one in which we are able 
to obtain a temperature higher than boiling (212° F-218° F). The high 
temperature is possible because the top fits down very closely and securely, 
and because of the triple thickness of the walls as shown in the illustra- 
tion. The chief advantage of the water-seal type is that the cooking 
time is shortened. For further details see the accompanying diagram. 

3. Pressure Canner. The third type of canner is known as the pres- 
sure cooker. It is manufactured of various materials, ranging from cast- 
iron to aluminum, and in various shapes. The distinguishing features 
are a securely fastened top which makes possible increased temperature 
and pressure, and a pressure gauge. Most of them also have a ther- 
mometer. 

C. Miscellaneous Utensils. Before beginning to can have con- 
veniently placed a sufficient number of sharp knives, knives which are 
adapted to the work to be done, and any other utensils which may be 
needed. There are various devices on the market which are cheap and 
save much time by making more easy such operations as paring, coring, 
slicing, etc. 



<^ 














'. ■> 

■4 
\ 

1 



WATER SEAL CANNER, CLOSED 
Note thermometer on top. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 



15 




WATER SEAL CANNER, OPEN 
A, rack for holding cans; B, container with double walls; C, cover 
which fits between the double walls of the container. This 
helps to conserve the heat and a slightly higher temperature 
is reached than with plain water bath. 




ANOTHER VIEW OF THE WATER SEAL CANNER 
A, container with rack partly inserted; B, cover. 



i6 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 




PRESSURE CANNER 
The clamps fastening down the top make a higher pressure and 
temperature possible. 

Before purchasing such devices the same question should be asked 
as was suggested in the case of the canner. The housewife should be sure 
that she will use it enough to warrant the investment. Too many utensils 
are not advisable. A few well chosen, simple utensils take less work to 
care for and in the end do better service than those which are more com- 
plicated. The added trouble of the care and storage of complicated de- 
vices in many cases outweighs any added utility they may possess. 
PLANNING THE WORK 

1. Time and Place. Canning would lose a great deal of its drudg- 
ery if the operation were thoroughly systematized. It should be planned 
for a time least likely to be interrupted by other household tasks. Much 



i 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 



17 



nervousness results from the attempt to attend to two different lines of 
work at the same time and neither is done well. 

The air in the room in which the canning is done should be as free as 
possible from dust. There should be plenty of table space and the tables 
should be so placed with reference to the stove and water supply as to 
avoid as much lifting and carrying as possible. In the summer time the 
work can be done in many cases with less worry and always more pleas- 
antly out-of-doors. This is quite possible with one of the small portable 
canners or even an oil stove. 

2. Sterilizing the Cans. The first step in the operation is sterilizing 
the cans. They should be carefully washed and may be sterilized in the 
canner or by boiling in a separate vessel provided for this purpose. In 
case a vessel without a rack is used, something must be placed in the bot- 
tom to hold the jars off it, otherwise the uneven heating will cause them 
to crack. The water should be cold when the jars are put in and heated 
slowly. 

While sterilization is not absolutely necessary when the fruit is to be 
cooked in the jars, it is a wise precaution to take and it heats up the jars 
so that when the work is done quickly there is less danger of breaking 
them. 

3. Length of Time the Various Materials Should be Heated in the 
Cans. Since different types of micro-organisms live on the different: 
varieties of fruit and vegetables, the time necessary to cook the different, 
ones varies. 

Time Table 

This table shows the time to be followed in the use of the four differ- 
ent types of portable home canners. 



Apples 3 

Apricots 3 

Asparagus, greens 

Apple cider 2 or 3 

Beans, Lima and string 2 or 3 



O 3 



Min. 
15 
15 
60 
20 
90 



U O 



CD o 



Min. 
15 
12 
60 
15 
60 



Min. 
10 
10 
40 
12 
60 



Min. 

6 

6 

30 

10 

30 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 



Blackberries, Dewberries 

Cherries, Peaches 

Corn without acids 

Grapes, Pears, Plums 

Hominy 

Huckleberries 

Okra 

Okra and tomatoes combined . 

'Oysters 

Peas, (field) ., 

Peas (garden or English) 

Pineapple 

Raspberries 

Sauerkraut 

Sausage 

Sweet potatoes 

Strawberries 

Succotash 

Tomatoes 

Tomatoes and corn 

Grape juice 

Quince 

Tomato juice 

Pumpkin 

Fish, pork 

Chicken, beef 

Figs 

Squash 

Spinach 

Other greens 

Rhubarb 

Beets 









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3 


30 


20 


10 


3 


50 


40 


30 


3 


60 


60 


40 


3 


60 


60 


40 


3 


25 


25 


15 


3 


20 


20 


15 



3 

5 
40 

6 
35 

3 
30 
30 
30 
30 
30 
10 

3 
25 
35 
40 

3 
30 

6 
40 

5 
10 
10 
30 
60 
40 

5 
20 
30 
30 
10 
10 



NOTE: This is a supplement to Farmers' Bulletin No. 521. By 
following the general instructions of the bulletin in connection with the 
time table, you will have the information necessary to do the work of 
canning all kinds of fruit and vegetables. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 19 

The operation from now on can be best illustrated by some typical 
examples. We might start with strawberries, since they are considered 
the most difficult to can. 

Canning Strawberries. The berries should be picked over, washed, 
and hulled. The washing can be carried out best in a colander or sieve of 
some kind so as to do away with as much handling and consequent bruis- 
ing as possible. The berries can be placed directly in the jars. 

Make a syrup using equal measures of sugar and water. Heat it just 
enough to dissolve the sugar. As soon as the jars are filled, the berries 
should be covered with the syrup. The covers are then fitted on loosely 
and when the rack is filled, all the jars are lowered at once into the sterili- 
zer and left for the length of time indicated in the above table. 

If the work has been done rapidly the glass jars will be warm enough 
from the sterilizing to render breaking unlikely. Each canner is usually 
provided with two racks so that while one lot of fruit is being sterilized 
another rack can be filled with a second set of jars. It will then be ready 
to take the place of the first when the time required for cooking is over. 
The time can be found by referring to the above table. For 
strawberries we see that it is ten, eight, five, and three minutes depending 
upon the type of canner used. 

Proceeding in this way we are able to can strawberries with more 
than twice the rapidity of the open kettle method, and at the same time 
retain more of the flavor, color, and shape. 

Canning Peaches. In canning peaches the operation is the same ex- 
cept that a preliminary scalding is necessary to remove the skins. The 
practice of peeling a peach with a knife is wasteful both of time and peach. 
The usual objection to the hot dip is that it softens the peach too much. 
This softening is in part avoided by dipping the peaches in cold water 
after the hot dip. The operation is made much easier if the fruit is put 
in a square of cheesecloth. The corners of the cheesecloth make a very 
convenient handle by means of which the fruit may be lifted in and out 
of the water. 

Scalding and dipping in cold water can be carried out either in the can- 
ner itself or in any bucket or open kettle. After such treatment the skin 
can usually be removed quite easily without the use of a knife. The 
stone may be removed or not as desired. When left in they give a slight 
flavor to the fruit which is desired by many. The peaches are then put 
into the cans and the same syrup used for strawberries or one with more 
sugar is poured over them. On looking at the table we see that the time 
for cooking peaches is fifteen, twelve, ten, or eight minutes according to 
the type of canner used. 

Canning Tomatoes. In canning tomatoes the operation is the same. 
They may be canned whole or in pieces, depending upon the size of the 
tomatoes, the size of the jars, and the use to which they are to be put. 
Instead of adding syrup, tomato juice ajad salt should be used, a teaspoon- 



20 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

ful of salt to each quart. The practice of adding water to tomatoes is to 
be discouraged, since they already contain so large a proportion of water 
that any further addition tends to decrease both food value and flavor. 

Canning Corn. Corn may be taken as another type to illustrate the 
methods of canning vegetables. Corn has for a long time been recognized 
as one of the most difificult of all the vegetables to keep. The process differs 
but slightly from those already described. The time of heating is longer. 

The corn should be freshly picked. The cooking of corn while still 
on the cob for 10 minutes sets the milk and less is lost in the process of cut- 
ting oflF. The jars should be previously sterilized, as usual, and the corn 
packed in tightly. Add one teaspoonful of salt to each quart and the jar 
may then be filled with the liquid in which the corn has been cooked. 
The covers should now be placed upon the cans and the rack lowered into 
the sterilizer. The time necessary for sterilization is 4 hours, if the water 
bath cooker is used, 3 hours with the water-seal apparatus, and an hour 
with the pressure cooker. Where only the water bath apparatus is availa- 
ble fractional sterilization is better. 

Canning by Heating on Three Successive Days. By fractional steril- 
ization we mean the cooking of the material to be canned for a shorter 
length of time than is necessary for complete sterilization, on three suc- 
cessive days. It is one of the ways in which we are able to kill those micro- 
organisms which form spores (see page 5). 

The time necessary is usually about 1 hour on each of three successive 
days. The time depends upon the size of the can and the consistency of 
the material. It is one of the the safest ways to can those vegetables 
which ordinarily give trouble. While it is slightly more difificult than the 
method which involves only one cooking, it can be used in cases where 
the other has proven to be ineffective. 

The method of cooking three successive days may be applied to all 
types of green vegetables, such as peas, beans, etc., with slight differences 
in the preparation and the length of time of cooking. 

This method has been described by a practical housewife as follows : 

" Spinach, Swiss chard, lambs quarter, are cooked down until tender in 
salt water in open kettle in order to get more bulk into cans. Then put into 
the jars until nearly full and pour on enough hot water to fill the jars full; 
to this add a scant teaspoonful of salt ; put on the lid and screw down loosely 
without rubber (to allow steam to escape); put into steamer, which should 
be kept about two-thirds full of water, and boil one hour for each of two 
days. On the second day of boiling, about fifteen minutes before time is 
up, unscrew tops, put on rubbers and screw down tight and place back in 
steamer for fifteen minutes so as to seal rubbers. See also that the jars 
arc full of water at the last cooking. 

" The eggplant must be cut into slices and parboiled in salt water un- 
til tender; then place in jars and follow directions given for spinach. 

" Peas, beans and all vegetables must be young, tender, and freshly 
gathered. Put into the jars cold; cover to overflowing with cold water 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 21 

and put a full teaspoonful of salt to the quart; screw on the lid lightly^ 
without rubbers; place in the steamer with enough lukewarm water to come 
up two-thirds on the jars (always keep adding boiling water to keep it just 
this high on the jar); steam for three days, one hour each day; then follow 
directions for spinach, etc., only do not put on rubbers until the third 
day — this holds good for all vegetables. 

"This may seem a great deal of trouble, but will prove very simple 
when once tried. You simply lift the steamer from the stove, leaving the 
jars in it until the next day, when you put back on stove and proceed as 
directed. If you have more vegetables than the steamer will accommo- 
date at one cooking, the jars can be removed and a cloth thrown over 
them to prevent a draft of air from striking the jars and breaking them." 

Be careful that the jars do not touch each other in the steamer, as 
they will crack if they do. 

Blanching. The government canning experts advocate the blanch- 
ing of all vegetables before canning. By blanching is meant dipping in 
hot water for varying lengths of time, depending upon the material used. 
Blanching is supposed to set the color, get rid of certain volatile gases and 
make unnecessary the exhausting process which has been considered an 
essential step in canning in tin. 

It should be borne in mind that in blanching a considerable amount 
of soluble material is lost. In the case any liquid is needed in the can this 
liquor should be used instead of water. With the bulky green vegetables 
a considerable shrinkage is brought about by the blanching. The shrink- 
ing makes it possible to fill the jars to much better advantage. The first 
cooking suggested above does all this without any loss of pot liquor. 

We cannot urge too strongly the canning of all types of vegetables^ 
for this is the best means of obtaining a well-balanced ration throughout 
the year. It will have the efi"ect of making the garden last all the year 
round. In planting the garden this use should be kept in mind in order 
to furnish vegetables in sufficient variety and amounts for canning. 

FRUIT JUICES 

Value. There is too little appreciation of the many uses to which 
fruit juices may be put in the home. Their preparation is simple and takes 
little time or skill. Nothing is more refreshing on a hot day than an iced 
fruit juice which can be very easily prepared if the juice has been bottled 
at the proper season. Not only it is possible in this way to obtain the 
fruit juice for use at any season, but the amount of work involved is far 
less when the juice is extracted in quantity than when it is extracted 
in small amounts for occasional use. 

Uses. Such juices may be used as a very pleasant addition to the 
daily menu as they lend themselves easily to many uses, such as ices, flavor- 
ing ice-cream, gelatine desserts, puddings, sauces, etc. Thus they make it 



22 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

possible to greatly vary the dessert portion of the menu with little outlay 
of money, time, or strength. 

Making, Any juicy fruit will give a good return in bottled juice. 
This may be extracted in the cold by the use of a fruit press as in cider 
making or with a smaller press. In case no press is used the fruit is cooked 
until the juice is extracted and drained as in jelly making. The ex- 
tracted juice may then be put in bottles, sterilized, securely corked and 
sealed and labeled. 

PRESERVATION BY MEANS OF SUGAR 

Before our knowledge of bacteriology made it possible for us to can 
vegetables to the extent we now do, we made much greater use of the 
harmless chemical preservatives in the keeping of fruit. Sugar is the 
one which has been most used. There are two reasons why it is easier 
to preserve fruit when a large quantity of sugar is used. 

In the first place, liquids which contain sugar can be heated to a much 
higher temperature than that to which water alone can be heated. The 
higher temperature will effect a more complete sterilization. Further- 
more, micro-organisms cannot live in a solution of sugar as concentrated 
as that found in the usual preserves, jams and jellies. 

The latter fact makes it unnecessary for us to seal these products 
in the same tight way that the canned foods must be sealed. The only 
precaution is that they should be covered to prevent the absorption of 
moisture because such a concentrated solution absorbs moisture from the 
atmosphere very readily. As a result any micro-organisms present will 
find the soil sufficiently dilute for their growth. 

In order to prevent the growth of micro-organisms when the pre- 
serves are not to be sealed in jars, we cover the jars with paraffin. Though 
paraffin does not form an air-tight seal still it is sufficient to prevent the 
absorption of moisture and keep out the greater number of the bacteria. 
Since the paraffin cover is very easily broken, it must be protected by 
a tin cover or a heavy piece of paper pasted over all. 

Various Fruit Products Preserved by Sugar. There are several 
names variously applied to different combinations of fruit and sugar, de" 
pending upon the proportion of the sugar used, the kind of fruit, and the 
part of the fruit. There is here, however, as with many other household 
products little uniformity. Listing the more familiar ones, we have pre- 
serves, conserve, jams, marmalades, butters, and jellies. It is worth while 
here as elsewhere to establish definite standards by which we may judge our 
products. It is difficult to produce something when a given word has a 
different meaning to each one. An attempt has been made to find the 
meaning which is most common. 

A number of recipe books, books on canning, etc. have been reviewed 
and as far as possible the data summarized. Wiley in his "Food and 
Their Adulterations" (page 375) distinguishes between terms as follows: 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 23 

'When the fleshy portion of the fruit is treated with sugar syrup and 
boiled it produces a product known as preserves; when a fruit product 
is reduced to a pulp and treated with sugar syrup and boiled, it makes a 
product known as jam, when the fruit juice itself is treated with syrup 
and boiled it makes a product known as jelly." These are given as gen- 
eral definitions, but are too general for our purpose. Jelly probably can 
be disposed of first. 

Jelly. No better definition can be found than the one given by Miss 
N. E. Goldthwaite (University of Illinois Bulletin, Vol. 8, No. 7, Princi- 
ples of Jelly Making). " Ideal fruit jelly is a beautifully colored, transpar- 
ent, palatable product obtained by so treating fruit juices that the re- 
sulting mass will quiver, not flow when removed from its mould; a pro- 
duct with texture so tender that it cuts easily with a spoon and yet so firm 
that the angles thus produced retain their shape; a clean product that is 
neither syrupy, gummy, sticky nor tough; neither is it brittle; and it will 
break with a distinct, beautiful cleavage which leaves sparkling, charac- 
teristic faces. " 

All fruits as ordinarily used will not make a jelly as those of us who 
have followed the recipes in cook books will know. A thick mass is obtained 
in many cases which might be called either a syrup or a candy, but no one 
in their sanest moments would identify it with a jelly as described above. 

In order to be used in making a satisfactory jelly a fruit must con- 
tain acid and pectin. The pectin is a carbohydrate which has been very 
little investigated. For our purposes it is sufficient to know that it is es- 
sential for successful jelly making. We may determine whether or not it 
is present in any given juice by adding to a small amount of that juice 
while cold an equal amount of ordinary alcohol (90 per cent to 95 percent). 
If pectin is present a gelatinous mass will appear which can be gathered 
upon the end of a glass rod or a spoon. If there is none the solution 
should remain clear. 

1. The Best Fruits for Jelly. The ideal fruits for jelly making are those 
which contain both acid and pectin, such as currant, partially ripe grapes, 
crabapples, sour apples, and plums. Blueberries make a surprisingly 
good jelly, while blackberries and raspberries may be used. Peaches, 
quinces, pears and sweet apples contain large amounts of pectin, but an 
insufficient amount of acid to cause the jell to form. However, very de- 
sirable jellies can be formed from these fruits by the addition of acids, 
tartaric or citric, to the juice. One level teaspoonful to a quart is usually 
sufficient, but much depends upon how acid the fruit is in the beginning. 
Stir to be sure that all the acid crystals are dissolved, then taste the juice. 
It should be about as acid as the juice of good tart apples. 

The addition of so large a quantity of acid, while it enables you to make 
jelly from peach and pear juice, necessarily destroys the delicate flavor 
of these fruits. Jelly from sweet apples and quinces is improved in flavor 
by the acidity. Cherries and strawberries, though they contain both 



24 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 




A JELLY BAG 

If the top were fastened to two nails instead of one the material 
could be introduced more easily. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 25 

acid and pectin, do not make ideal jellies. Miss Goldthwaite found that 
the quality of strawberry jelly was improvedby the addition of a small 
amount of acid, but the flavor was not so good. The cherry juice was 
already so acid that no more acid was added. Both strawberry and cherry 
juice were found to yield a better quality of jelly, though by no means 
perfect, if cooked to a slightly higher temperature than ordinarily, thereby 
reaching a greater concentration. Pineapple was the only fruit investi- 
gated which contained no pectin. 

2. Extraction of the Juice. Heating is necessary in order to extract 
pectin from the fruit. Frequently when no pectin is found in the raw, 
pressed juices of certain fruits, juice cooked out of the same fruit will 
yield large amounts of it. To juicy fruit add just the smallest possible 
amount of water and when heated through crush the fruit and cook the 
whole mass throughout. 

Strain through moistened double cheesecloth or flannel bags. The 
fruit may be extracted a second or third time, a weaker extraction being 
the result in each case. The pectin test given above will show when the 
•extraction has gone far enough. The less juicy fruits are used in the same 
way, only more water is necessary. 

3. How Much Sugar to Use. Where most jelly makers fail is in 
the use of too large a proportion of sugar. Equal measures of juice and 
sugar is the usual way in which this proportion is stated. The indefinite- 
Tiess of such a statement is at once realized when one knows that the 
proportion of sugar should be based upon the amount of pectin in the 
juice rather than the total amount of juice. 

For those fruits which contain the largest amount of pectin and for 
those in which little water is used in order to extract the juice, the larger 
proportion of sugar may be used. When too small a proportion of sugar 
is used a tough jelly results. In case a jelly is too soft and inclined to be 
stringy, a smaller proportion of sugar will give better results. In no ease 
■did Miss Goldthwaite find that a proportion of sugar larger than one 
measure of sugar to one measure of juice was desirable. On the other 
hand, in many cases a more ideal jelly was made upon the proportion of % 
as much sugar as juice. This result was obtained when water had been 
used in extracting the juice or when the pectin content was not especially 
high, as in some of the berries. 

Since the juice from the second and third extraction must 
necessarily contain little pectin, a smaller proportion of sugar 
should be used, sometimes falling as low as ^ as much sugar as 
fruit juice. The only means we have of judging whether or not the pro- 
portion of sugar is correct is by the character of the resulting jelly. The 
more sugar the more jelly or syrup, but we are aiming for quality not 
quantity. Repeating the statement made above, a tough jelly indicates 
too little sugar, a soft, sticky jelly (provided both pectin and acid are pres- 
ent) indicates too large a proportion of sugar. If your jelly is not a sue- 



26 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

cess, cook it over, making the necessary corrections by adding sugar or 
juice as indicated. Only bear in mind the fact that if the pectin is cooked 
too long with the acid present, it may be destroyed and no jelly can be 
obtained. 

4. Aim in Making Jelly. In jelly making our aim is to change the 
liquid fruit juice into a solid or make it jell, as we say. This is brought 
about by the combined effect of sugar, acid, and boiling upon the pectin 
of fruit juice. The effect is to cause the pectin to precipitate in a solid 
mass throughout the fruit juice, forming jelly. 

5. How Long Should Jelly Cook. We have discussed the other 
three elements, the pectin, the acid, and the sugar, the question remaining 
is how much boiling is necessary. The jelly forms only when the fruit 
juice and sugar are boiled to a definite concentration. The time necessary 
to bring about concentration ranges from eight to thirty minutes. As- 
would be expected, the jelly in which the proportion of sugar and juice i& 
equal will reach the concentration sooner than one in which % as much 
sugar as juice is used. 

6. How to Tell When Done. The jelly test is "that point at which 
the boiling mass 'jells', shuts off or breaks off, as a portion of it is allowed 
to drop from the stirring spoon." Since the concentration may be accu- 
rately determined by the temperature of the boiling solution, this point 
may be determined by reading a candy thermometer, the bulb of which is 
suspended in the boiling syrup. When it registers 103° Centigrade or 216° 
Fahrenheit the jelly is done. 

7. When to Add Sugar. The best time to add the sugar seems to be 
after the juice has boiled about fifteen minutes, or for a length of time 
which experience tells you is about half that sufficient to cook the jelly. 
If the sugar has been heated before adding, it does not cool the jelly and 
make the cooking time longer. 

8. Skimming. The juice should be thoroughly skimmed before 
adding the sugar. One very interesting economic point brought out 
by Miss Goldthwaite is that the skimmings are very much increased in 
amount when the sugar is added at the beginning, due of course to the 
presence of sugar in them. On the other hand, if the sugar is added too 
late it is not cooked sufficiently and the jelly may crystallize. 

The above points can best be summarized by giving definite direc- 
tions for making one of the typical jellies. 

APPLE JELLY 

1. Extraction of Juice. The same rules of cleanliness should be 
observed in jelly making as in canning. Whole apples may be used 
They should be well washed and cut into small pieces to make it easier 
to extract the juice. As the pectin is more abundant just beneath the 
skin and around the core, such refuse portions from other operations may 
be used for jelly making. As small amount of water as possible is used 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 2.J 

and the whole is cooked until the apple is well softened. Cooking is 
necessary in order to extract the pectin. The extraction of the apple 
juice in the cold, as in cider making, does not take out the pectin. For 
this reason it is impossible to make jelly from cider. 

After the fruit is thoroughly soft, put in a bag and allow to drain 
If the bag is a pointed one, the draining may be accomplished in a shorter 
time because of the pressure of the pulp into the point. When a clear 
jelly is desired, the fruit is allowed to drain naturally, but if we want to 
get all of the juice out, the bag may be squeezed. This squeezing of the 
bag results in a cloudy jelly. It is a question whether we should sacrifice 
the amount for the appearance. The advantages of both may be obtained 
by cooking the two lots of juice separately. 

All the jelly making portion is not extracted by the first cooking. 
If a small amount of water is now added and the pulp recooked, jelly can 
still be made from the juice which results. The second portion is apt to 
lack flavor. Flavor may be added in the form of a juice which, although 
possessing good flavor, will not jell, such as peach, cherry, or strawberry. 

2. Cooking. After the juice is drained it should be measured 
and put to cook again in a clean vessel. Let it boil up and then skim. 
The sugar may be heated in the oven, if it can be watched and burning 
prevented. The only object of heating the sugar is that if cold it would 
stop the boiling, thus slightly increasing the cooking time. The longer 
cooking also has a slight tendency to produce a darker jelly. Skim 
again if necessary. Cook until it will jell. 

3. When Cooked. The easiest and safest way to test is by the ther- 
mometer. When the thermometer is inserted in the solution and regis- 
ters 103° Centigrade or 216° Farenheit the jelly is done. (Care must 
be taken not to touch the bottom of the kettle with the thermometer as 
that would give the temperature of the kettle bottom rather than of the 
syrup.) 

The experienced jelly maker can safely use other tests, such as drop- 
ping a few drops of the liquid on a cold plate. If it shows signs of jellying 
when perfectly cold, the proper point has been reached. 

4. Putting Into Glasses. If the jelly is strained into glasses, a 
clearer product will result, but the added labor and the risk of loss through 
slow action is usually greater than the value of any gain in clearness. 

5. Covering. There are many ways of covering jelly, any one of 
which may be used. The object is merely to protect from molds, and 
insects and to prevent the jelly from either drying out or absorbing water. 
The jelly may be brushed with alcohol and covered with hot paraffin. A 
tin cover may be used or paper may be pasted over the jar. Always 
label carefully, as much trouble is eliminated thereby. 

Using Paraffin. It is a good plan to keep on hand a small vessel for 
melting paraffin and to use it only for this purpose. One that will fit 
nt o the top of the teakettle is especially handy. The pieces of the paraffin 



28 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 




AIDS FOR THE SEALING AND LABELING OF CANNED GOODS. 



which have been removed from jelly may be washed and saved, then used 
from year to year. Paraffin is difficult to remove entirely from a vessel 
in which it has been melted. A good plan in such a case is to fill the vessel 
brimming full of boiling water and allow it to stand undisturbed until 
the water is cold. All the paraffin will be found solidified on the top and 
may be removed and saved. 

When the Jelly Has not Been Cooked Sufficiently. If the jelly is but 
slightly soft, leaving the glasses in the sun for a day or two will be suffi- 
cient to complete the jellying process. The jelly should be covered to 
prevent dust accumulating upon it. 

Other Kinds of Jelly. The process of jelly making does not vary, all 
kinds being made in the same way. The ripeness of the fruit often de- 
termines the color and flavor of the resulting jelly. For instance. Con- 
cord grapes, picked while green, give a very light colored jelly and one 
that possesses a different flavor than that made from the ripe grape. 

Numberless varieties of flavor may be made by a judicious blending 
of fruit juices. But as this is a matter largely of personal preference, it 
will not be enlarged upon here. 

Advantages of Canning Fruit Juices for Jelly. It is sometimes better 
simply to can the unsweetened juice and make the jelly at a more suitable 
time. Several advantages are: 

1. It makes it possible to work under easier weather conditions, as 
most fruits are available at the hottest and busiest time of year. Jelly 
making comes at a time when the out-of-doors is most beautiful and one 
can find many winter days better adapted to jelly making. 

2. The advantage which will appeal to many is saving storage room. 
Much juice can be stored in half gallon and gallon cans in a small space, 
while glasses take up a large amount of space. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 29 

3. A larger range of flavor is permitted since fruits may be combined 
that ripen at widely differing seasons. Any juice left over from canning 
and preserving may be saved and used for jelly making. 

4. Time is saved because one can make more jelly in a day if but one 
of the operations required in jelly making is needed. In time of large 
crops much fruit juice may be canned and may later serve to tide over a 
season in which there may be a crop failure. 

Orange Peel Used in Jelly Making. Before leaving the question of 
jelly making, attention should be called to one source of pectin of which 
the housewife is not usually aware. It has long been customary to use 
as a basis for jellies the juice of a fruit such as apple, which, though not 
especially well flavored, contains all the other essentials for making good 
jelly, and add to it varying amounts of other fruits which are made to jell 
with more difficulty, but which have an especially good flavor. 

Miss Goldthwaite in the course of her experiments found out that the 
white inner peel of the orange and lemon is an abundant source of pectin. 
This fact accounts for the jelly-like character of orange marmalade and of 
the hand lotion made from the juice of the boiled-up lemon, glycerine 
and alcohol. 

Orange and lemon peelings are a waste product in every home. If 
they were saved they might be used very effectively in jelly making. The 
yellow part contains the bitter principle and should be removed before 
boiling up the white to extract the pectin. 

PRESERVES, JAMS, MARMALADES 

The essential differences between preserves, jams, marmalades, and 
butters is nowhere clearly defined. 

Preserves. Preserves originally meant the cooking together of 
definite quantities of fruit and sugar, usually equal quantities, to the point 
where it would keep without being sealed air-tight. In this case the 
sugar is so concentrated that it prevents the growth of any organisms. 
In preserves we aim to keep as nearly as possible the original shape and 
appearance of the fruit. The cooking in the sugar solution makes the 
fruit appear clear. In preserves we can distinguish two essentially differ- 
ent parts, the fruit and the juice. 

Jams. Jams differ from preserves in that the whole fruit is used. 
The fruit is crushed in the juice so as to produce a homogeneous mixture. 
As a rule only the small fruits of which the whole may be used are utilized 
in jam making. 

Butters. Butters are more mixed and more smooth than jams. For 
this purpose we use fruits that contain a larger proportion of fleshy materi- 
al. We also discard the seeds and skins. 

Marmalade. Marmalade stands midway between jams and butters. 
Larger fruits are used for this purpose than are utilized in jam making. 



30 



UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 



Those fruits whose pulp will not produce the smooth consistency of a but- 
ter are used in marmalade making. 

It is possible by changing the method of preparation to make both a 
butter and a marmalade from the same fruit, for example, the peach. If 
the peaches are cooked until soft before adding the sugar the consistency 
is usually that of a butter. On the other hand, if the sugar is added at 
the beginning of the operation and the pulp is preserved in small pieces 
rather than being cooked smooth, we can recognize two distinct portions, 
the juice, and small particles of preserved fruit, and the result is a marma- 
lade. 




HANDY UTENSILS TO BE USED IN PRESERVING FOODS 
A, apple, slicer and cover; B, potato river; C, wooden masher; D, 
wooden spoon; E, large fruit press. 



Amount of Sugar. In all of the above mixtures practically the same 
amounts of sugar are used. Formerly the proportion of equal weights of 
fruit and sugar was used. We now realize that better consistency and 
flavor is obtained with the use of less sugar. Three-fourths {%) as much 
sugar, by weight, as fruit will be sufficient to keep it when cooked to the 
desired concentration. 

Some recipes will be found which call for a smaller proportion of 
sugar. Such proportions do not make preserves in the true sense of the 
term, for in such cases there is not sufficient sugar to keep the fruit unless 
sealed air-tight. 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 3 1 

Such variation in the amounts of sugar called for by various recipes, 
makes the line between canned and preserved fruits extremely narrow and 
variable. That is why it is difficult to judge the great variety of entries 
under the title of "Preserves" at the usual Fair Exhibit. 

Preserves should, both from the meaning of the term and the usage 
which has grown up around it, be considered as containing enough sugar 
to keep the fruit were the jar left unsealed, and the fruit should retain its 
•original shape as nearly as possible. 

Preserves should be so sealed as to prevent them from absorbing 
moisture. If the preserves are left so that they absorb this moisture the 
proportion of sugar is so reduced that it cannot prevent the growth of any 
organisms that may get in. 

Principles Underlying Preparation. As there are so many ways of 
preparing preserves and like products, it might be well to consider a few 
•essential principles. When the aim is to retain the shape of the fruit, 
it should be cooked from the beginning in a sugar syrup as that has a ten- 
dency to harden the fruit and thus retain the shape. 

In the case of a fruit which contains a large amount of fiber or when 
the fruit is to be mashed, it should be cooked until tender before the sugar 
is added. There is no need to do this in the case of soft fruits. 

When our aim is to retain the shape of the fruit we should decrease 
the handling of the fruit as much as possible. The making of candied 
fruits as it is done commercially affords a good example of this. Here 
syrups of gradually increasing density are poured over the fruit, thus 
producing the "candied" effect, without a large amount of cooking. 

In the candying process the fruit must be cooked in a sugar syrup, 
for a short time, as this cooking makes it possible for the fruit to absorb 
the sugar and thus prevents shrinkage. The fruit is then allowed to stand 
until the syrup thoroughly permeates it, usually two or three days. The 
syrup should then be drained off, cooked down, and poured over the fruit 
again. This is continued until the syrup, after standing over the fruit, 
is of the desired thickness, as the syrup tends to draw out the water from 
the fruit. 

If the fruit is cooked along with the syrup, stirring is necessary, which 
results in broken fruit and the continued heating gives an undesirable 
color to the fruit. 

Sun Preserves. The above principle is used in the making of sun 
preserves. Here the heat of the sun gradually concentrates the syrup. 
As no stirring is necessary shape is retained. The low heat is not suffi- 
cient to change the color. The fruit must be heated up with the syrup 
before putting in the sun. When this is not done the fruit will shrivel, because 
the very thick syrup will draw out the water from the fruit but will not be 
able to get into the fruit to take its place. The previous cooking makes 
it possible for the fruit to absorb the syrup. 

Conserve. Conserve is a name frequently given to a kind of preserves 
made from a mixture of fruits, to which nuts are usually added. 



32 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

General Rules 

Since it is desirable in all the above products to have a jelly-like 
rather than a candy consistency; all the rules observed in jelly making 
are to a less degree applicable here. Especially is it possible to produce a 
marmalade of more desirable consistency by the use of the pectin which 
may be cooked out of the white inside peel of the fruits usually employed 
in making marmalade. The addition of small amounts so obtained might 
materially improve the texture of other preserves without in any way 
changing the flavor. The test as to when the products are done should 
be the same as jelly, especially in the cases where there is any tendency 
to jell. Whenever the cooking is continued beyond the jelly temperature 
the mass usually is tough, and is more of a candy than a jelly. 

The standards for each of these products can probably be held in 
mind most clearly by the use of a score card, which not only enumerates 
the different points to be kept in mind, but assigns a definite value to each. 
Score cards are included here. 



SCORE CARDS 



Canned Goods. In the canned product we should aim to have the 
fruit contain as near as possible its original shape and flavor. In the case 
of canned fruits the natural flavor of the fruit should not be hidden with too 
much sugar. 

Score for Canned Fruit 

Fruit — shape 15 

color 15 

flavor 30 

Juice — flavor 15 

clearness and consistency 15 

Proportion of fruit to juice. . 10 

100 

Score for Canned Vegetables 

Flavor of vegetable 35 

Condition of vegetable 35 

Proportion of vegetable to juice 20 

General appearance 10 

100 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 33 

Score for Jelly 

Color 10 

Transparency. 20 

Taste 25 

Consistency — hold shape, not flow 15 

tender, will cut easily 15 

firm, angles retain shape 5 

No signs of crystallization 10 

100 
Score for Preserves 

Fruit — shape 10 

clearness and color 10 

flavor 15 

texture 10 

Juice — clearness and color 10 

flavor 15 

consistency 10 

proportion of juice 20 

100 
Score for Jams 

Homogeneity (even distributing of pulp and juice and seed) 30 

Consistency 30 

Flavor 30 

Color 10 

100 
Score for Butters 

Smoothness 30 

Consistency 30 

Flavor • 30 

Color 10 

100 
Score for Marmalades 

Homogeneity 15 

Consistency 25 

Clearness 20 

Flavor 25 

Color 15 

100 



34 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

PICKLING 

Other preservatives than sugar which may be used are salt, vinegar 
and the various kinds of spices. Typical foods which are preserved by 
means of these articles are mincemeat, fruit cake, spiced fruit, meats, and 
pickles. Pickle is the only one which we will consider in any detail. It 
is worth while to note in passing, however, that the preservative action 
of the different spices varies. The spices are usually added for flavor, 
rather than for any preservative action they may exert. It is of interest 
to note to what extent one can depend upon the preservative action in 
the various spices. 

(Note. Conrad Hoffman and Alice Evans in "The Preservative 
Action of Spices", Journal of Home Economics, volume 3, page 452 
Vinegar is valuable as a preservative. Ginger, black pepper, and cayenne 
do not prevent the growth of organisms. Cinnamon, cloves, and mustard 
are valuable preservatives, while nutmeg and allspice delay growth. Cin- 
namon, cloves, and mustard are about equal in efficiency. Cinnamon 
and mustard are especially valuable for they are still palatable when 
used in proportion large enough to prevent all growths. Cloves in the 
proportion that would prevent growth are unpalatable. In smaller 
amounts cloves exert a retarding action.) 

In pickles we make use of the preservative action of vinegar and 
spices. The use of salt in pickle-making is to draw out the water. The 
necessity for this is brought out very clearly by reference to the composi- 
tion of the vegetables commonly used in pickle-making. 

Percentage of Water in Some Common Vegetables 

Per cent 
Water 

Cabbage 91.5 

Beans (green) 89.2 

Beets 87.5 

Cauliflower 92.3 

Cucumber 95.4 

Onions 87.6 

Tomatoes 94.3 

The brine most frequently used is made by dissolving one meas- 
ure of salt in eight measures of water. In those pickles in which the 
vegetable is finely divided a brine is not used, but alternate layers of salt 
and vegetable are packed down in jars, the last layer being salt. This is 
allowed to stand for a few hours. 

If the vegetables were used without previous treatment, the resulting 
liquid would be so dilute as to have no preservative action. When the 
vegetables are soaked in brine, the action of the strong salt solution is to 
draw the water out. The water can be separated from the vegetables by 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 35 

squeezing the pickle in cloths. Where too much salt is left in the pickle, 
it should be removed by washing with vinegar. Washing with water 
would only defeat our purpose, as it would put back in the vegetable the 
water we had taken so much trouble to remove. The water might, of 
course, be cooked off, but this would so soften the vegetables as to render 
them unfit for use as pickle. Crispness is a desirable attribute of all pick- 
les. After the vinegar and seasoning have been added the whole mass 
should be heated or the hot vinegar may be. poured over the pickle. In 
the latter case the vinegar should be drained off, reheated, and again poured 
over the pickle for three successive days. This treatment with the hot 
vinegar causes the vegetable to absorb the vinegar and the seasonings. 
A large number of recipes call for alum, as it makes the pickle move crisp 
and firm. Since in the opinion of experts, alum is a most undesirable 
addition to our foods, its use in this case is to be discouraged. 

There are three main classes of pickles: sweet fruit or vegetable pick- 
les; sour pickles, which include mustard pickles; and that large variety 
of pickles in which the material is chopped finely. 

Although many varied recipes may be found for each class, one for- 
mula can be used to make a large variety. A large number of recipes that 
seem very different may be reduced to the following formulae. 

Formula for Sweet Pickles 

2 lbs. of prepared fruit or vegetables 
sugar 
vinegar 

1 oz. of mixed spices. 

The kind of fruit or vegetables and the way it is prepared determines 
the kind of pickle which results. For example: 

Sweet Peach Pickle. Scald the peach to remove the skin. If the 
peach is hard, cook until tender (steaming is the best method). Prepare 
the vinegar according to the above formula and cook the peach in it until 
it is transparent. 

Sweet Pear Pickle. Peel the pear and proceed as above. 

Crabapple Pickles. Crabapples need not be peeled. If they are 
pricked the spiced vinegar can find entrance and flavors the pickle. The 
pickle is made in the same way as the peach or pear. 

Sliced Tomato Pickles. Green tomatoes may be sliced and a sweet 
pickle made according to the above rules. However most people prefer 
the green tomatoes when sliced and mixed with sliced onions and a sour 
spiced vinegar added. 

Watermelon rind makes a very good pickle. Trim off all of the red 
and the green parts, cut in suitable pieces, and put the rind to cook in salt- 
ed water ( J^ tsp. to one quart). Cook until it becomes translucent. Drain 
water off. Cook for one-half hour in sweetened vinegar, using 3 pints of 



36 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

brown sugar to one quart of vinegar. One cup of mixed spices may be 
put in a cheesecloth bag and added to the vinegar if the spiced flavor is 
desired. 

Mustard Pickles 

J^to Yi cup of sugar 

1 oz. ground mustard 

2 tablespoons of flour 

Mix and stir into one pint of hot vinegar and cook until it thickens. 
Tumeric may be added to give color. Pour while hot over one quart 
of mixed vegetables from which the water has been extracted by the brine 
treatment. 

Reference, Anna Barrows, "Course in the Use and Preparation of 
Vegetable Foods", United States Department of Agriculture, Office of 
Experiment Station, Bulletin No. 245, p. 89. 

Spiced Vinegar for Sour Pickles 

1 gal. of vinegar 
4 red peppers 

2 sticks ot cinnamon 

2 tablespoons of allspice berries 

2 tablespoons of cloves 

If the spices are tied up in cheesecloth bags the amount of flavor can 
be better regulated, as they can be easily removed at any time. This also 
improves the appearance of the pickle. 

Reference, F. M. Farmer, Boston Cooking School Cook-book, p. 584. 

Chili Sauce 

Take two quarts of ripe tomatoes, four large onions, four peppers, 
chop them fine, then add four cups of vinegar. 

3 tablespoons of brown sugar 
2 tablespoons of salt 

2 teaspoons of cloves 
2 teaspoons of cinnamon 
2 teaspoons of ginger 

1 teaspoon of allspice 

2 teaspoons of nutmeg 

Boil together until quite thick, then bottle for use. 

Pickle Lily 

One peck of green tomatoes 
Two quarts of onions 
Two or three green or red peppers 
Chop all fine, Separate and mix, adding two cups of salt. Let 
stand over night and in the morning drain well. Add half pound of mus- 



PRESERVATION OF FOOD IN THE HOME 



37 



tard seed and one cup of grated horseradish. Put in a cloth bag two 
tablespoons of ground allspice, two tablespoons of ground cloves, let boil 
with three quarts of vinegar, pour over all. Put away in Mason jars. 
Celery can be used in place of onions aftd cabbage added with all. 

Chopped Pickles. These may be made in numberless mixtures, the 
materials most used are tomatoes, both green and ripe, cabbage, onions, 
celery, cauliflower. These may be cooked with the vinegar and spices 
as in the making of Chili Sauce or they may be left raw as in the case of 
Pickle Lily, The kinds and amounts in the various mixtures is a matter 
of personal preference. 

Scores for Pickles 

In pickles the preservation is effected by the use of vinegar and spice. 
This means the strength of the vinegar must be sufficient to exert a pre- 
servative action and that it must be sufficient in amount to cover the 
pickled material. Any sign of spoiling ought to disqualify the sample of 
pickle. 

Score for Plain Vegetable Pickles 

These are judged under three heads (1) sweet, (2) sour, (3) dill. The 
same score being used in each case. 



Score 



Flavor. 



30 



Texture — firm not tough 20 

not soft or flabby 30 



Color. 



10 



Proportion of pickle to liquid 5 

General appearance 5 

100 
Mixed Vegetable Pickles 

Choice and proportion of materials 20 

Consistency and color of fluid 10 

Flavor 30 

Texture of vegetable material 30 

Color 5 

General appearance 5 

100 



38 UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI BULLETIN 

Score for Relishes 

In this class is included all the finely ground pickles. 

Choice and proportion of materials 20 

Size and uniformity of pieces 10 

Flavor 40 

Texture of material 20 

Color 5 

General appearance 5 

100 
Score for Sweet Fruit Pickles 

A sweet fruit pickle has two distinct parts, the fruit and the juice. 
The aim should be to retain as much as possible of the flavor in the fruit. 
The only function of the juice is to serve as a flavoring medium and source 
of flavor for the pickled fruit. 

Texture of fruit 25 

Flavor 40 

Appearance of fruit 10 

Clearness of syrup (Cloudiness indicates loss of substance from the 

fruit) 10 

Consistency of syrup 10 

General appearance 5 

100 



THE 

UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI 

BULLETIN 

Volume IS 



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EDITED BY 

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